A sensible starting point
How the estimate is worked out
First it takes your monthly pay before tax and the share of it you are willing to spend on debt, which is your target debt-to-income ratio. Then it takes off what you already pay each month. What is left is your housing budget. From there it works backwards through the rate, the term, tax, insurance, mortgage insurance and any association fee to reach a price.
What you can afford is your call, not a formula's
A lender might approve more. That does not make it comfortable. Income tax, retirement savings, childcare, repairs, power bills and money set aside for emergencies all come out of the same pay. Treat this number as a ceiling to think about, not a target to hit.
An example
Say you earn $120,000 a year and want no more than 36% of it going to debt. That is $3,600 a month. If your car, student loan and cards already take $600, you have about $3,000 left for the home. The tool then works out which price fits that.
What moves the number
- A higher rate buys you less house for the same payment.
- A bigger down payment means a smaller loan, and at 20% you skip PMI.
- Property tax, insurance and association fees can pull the price down a long way.
- Closing costs and the savings a lender wants to see are separate again.